Ricotta Diaries

The Raw and the Cooked: restaurant as bridge

2009-11-29T11:45:00.002-05:00

The Raw and the Cooked (Le Cru et le cuit) is one of the titles from Mythologiques I-IV written by French anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss. Here he notes that in changing raw foods into cooked delicacies we transform nature into culture.

By doing so we civilize our animal instincts, and this I think is the role of a restaurant. In a public eatery we do not diminish gustatory pleasure, but we savor and enjoy prepared food in the company and conversation of others, or alone in thought and reflection. The point is that your mind is also engaged, creating a symbiosis with your body.

Recent anthropological studies by Prof Richard Wrangham of Harvard University underscore the evolutionary association of brain to gut. He reasons that more blood is needed to keep the gut going, and when thinking man discovered fire, cooking evolved, creating more easily digestible fuel. A bigger brain, he says, eventually led to a smaller gut.

The etymology of the word restaurant is to restore oneself, physically and mentally. It's a place to socialize, where interaction becomes culture as restaurants mirror society. We see this in the theatrical aspects of a restaurant, particularly themed ones, with all the mystery and tension of performance that goes on behind a proscenium or behind swinging curtain doors. When dining in a restaurant, nature triumphs with culture as the restaurant bridges this gap.

The trend for quick meals and not socializing with the folks who sit beside you, but with mostly faceless, masked, or cryptic personae on your wireless, is exhilarating for some as techno-man leaps into the 21st century, and distressing to others as they sense a regression in social behavior because of fast food influences.

This is a question the restaurant industry and society in general faces. Are we in a free fall or will we find a new plateau? Fast food, raw food: been there done that.

A Good Champagne Loves Me

2009-11-21T16:11:00.008-05:00

I've written about this before, so when the question about favorite Champagne was recently posed on LinkedIn, I couldn't help but respond. If you are not on LinkedIn, here's my post.

Because I enjoy Champagne so much I have said, "A good Champagne loves me." I am not an expert, but I know what I like; and I like what likes me.

I arrived at this conclusion because I could never understand why some people associate Champagne with headaches. They blame it on sugar. I blame it on price. Literally. Really good Champagne costs.

As does all good wine, Champagne has to come from good grapes and it has to be handled properly. Traditional methods of using only the juice of first pressings and the minimal contact of skins helps make it great. Even with today’s technological advances, there is a need for man hours. All this plus aging before release, and inherent real estate values drives cost.

I love the toast and yeasty flavors of Krug, the ability to have just a glass with a 187 ml. of Laurent-Perrier, and if prone to headaches Bollinger’s RD (recently disgorged.)

As noted by Eugene O’Neill in The Iceman Cometh, "Some people do love their Champagne." As do I. Dry, tiny bubbles, maybe a hint of lemon, or a little age. Rounded so it glides, with a lingering finale. And because I feel good the next day, I know I am loved.

Vermont’s Wine Future

2009-09-19T21:14:00.018-04:00

Topic of Discussion with Grape Growers OCT 30

There is a lot of buzz going on in Vermont grape growing circles, albeit still a concentrically small circle, but nevertheless growing as it hums about a newly released cold hardy grape varietal. On Friday, October 30th, Vermont estate winemakers will speak about the future of Vermont wine at a special dinner to be held at Hemingway’s.

Derived from the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Center, the hybrid vine, Marquette, has been planted by at least two Vermont wineries with excellent results in barrel and now in bottle.

Withstanding temperatures as low as -36° F Marquette brings a ray of sunshine to what used to be a cloudy Vermont wine future. Not only does it survive cold, but also it is disease resistant and makes a quality wine. Time, terroir, and wine making skills will eventually distinguish Vermont wines from each other and from the rest of the world.

There is also buzz about maintaining integrity in wine labeling in our small state. A recently formed Vermont Grape and Wine Council has become necessary for the 20 or so wineries that now exist from 25 years ago. Some members are pushing for self-regulatory guidelines mandating that grapes be grown in state if labels proffer Vermont wine. They contend that blending or sole use of viniferous grapes grown in warmer areas should be specified and in limited amounts. (Vitus vinifera grapes are common European varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot noir that have traditionally set the standard in producing excellent wines.)

Addressing this concern, Lincoln Peak Vineyard, for example, has this statement on their website about “Vermont wine, or ‘Vermont’ wine.

It's great to see the Vermont wine industry take off, but consumers should be aware that not all the wine that's sold by Vermont wineries is made from Vermont grapes. Some ‘Vermont’ wine isn't even made in Vermont. It's made in other states and simply bottled in Vermont. This wine may be perfectly delicious, and there may be situations where importing fruit is necessary -- when a new Vermont winery's own vineyard hasn't yet come into production, or when bad weather reduces the grape crop. But in the long run, I'm convinced that to gain identity and respect as a wine region, Vermont wineries need to grow and produce our own unique wines. As the largest grape grower in the state, I'm encouraging other Vermont wineries to produce the delicious wines that truly have the taste of our special place.

100% of the grapes in Lincoln Peak wine are grown here, and (barring weather disasters) always will be.”

We have held a series of harvest dinners at Hemingway's featuring local farmers since 1990, because we always enjoy educating the public to the pleasures of the table, and to the artful pairing of food and wine. Come taste, listen, learn, and enjoy with us!

A Thug I like

2009-09-08T12:43:00.001-04:00

Several years ago, I planted Rosa rugosa, a small, hardy, wild rose bush. It is finally at optimum height, is spreading, and is doing what it's supposed to do: provide fragrant summer flowers, and now in September, laden itself with fruit which I harvest for jam, jelly, or sauce. This year is our best crop thus far, and we will use the finished product at our fall harvest dinner featuring Vermont estate winemakers.

Rose hips, as the pome fruit is known, is tart, low in pectin, full of seeds, widely used in herbal teas, and is a source for vitamin C. Though I have not yet tried them, the leaves are said to make tea, and the flower petals are edible as are other rose petals.

Since it's sunny location was near the road I planted the shrub because of its easy care, tolerance for salt, sun, and poor soil. Some folks prune them, but I planted them in an area so they could go untamed without care. Seen growing wild along sea shores, it is also known as salt spray rose, sea rose, and sea tomato.

In some of these areas it is considered an invasive weed, but I would be happy to have this fruit bearing thug overtake other weeds and trees I prefer not to have. Perhaps in these milder areas they are more of a nuisance than here in our cold haven--just another reason to love Vermont!

Hyper Vine Longing for Sunshine: Ray Knutsen, Vermont Winemaker Part 1

2009-08-06T21:05:00.002-04:00

We spent the afternoon with Ray Knutsen at his vineyard and winery in Benson, Vermont. He is enthusiasm on steroids--the epitome of the garage wine mechanic. Able to leap large ideas in a single bound, he planted his first vines in the mid-seventies, going through the maelstrom of trying to bring vinifera to Vermont only to emerge years later as a sort of Guru of hybrid varietals. Based on his extensive research, trial and error, and uncompromising honesty about what can really work on a cold hilltop in Vermont instead of the Elysium slopes of the Côtes d’Or in France.

Ourselves being Vermonters for 30 plus years (don’t say that to a local) our first question was what we thought the obvious one: “How much cold can these guys handle?”

Answer: “40 below.” Ray nosedives his hand and then levels off. ”No vines like a major change from say 20 degrees to 30 below, but these Minnesota hybrids do fine here.”

But it’s not the bigger deal here in Vermont this year. What is, is rot, WEATHER, rain, mold, mildew, numerous fungi. The University of Minnesota being the vanguard of hybridizing vinifera so places like there and here can grow grapes and make wine. We suspect they are working on fungi after Ray animates the plucking of weaker strains from the test beds.

Free association now from Ray, a vortex of information on lessons learned in Minnesota, the dizzying number of vines tested each year, their process of elimination, the how’s and why’s of The University of Minnesota’s snail pace when it comes to releasing new hybrid grapes. I mean we are mortal, so if you want to get a leg up and move forward in the Vermont wine world you may have to live to be 200!

We try some Le Crescent out of one of the stainless tanks, reminiscent of Riesling, but a bit edgier, with less of the petroleum nose we’re used to in some European Rieslings. Clean, tight, a food wine as they say. Then we spit and miraculously the three of us all begin to crow about chewable, flabby, cream-soda-like, monster, American Chardonnays with alcohol levels that could kill off a sumo wrester after two sips. And they are not all cheap wines!

Ride of the Valkyries: Ray Knudsen, Vermont Winemaker Part 2

2009-08-05T09:29:00.002-04:00

The pirate Ray leaps towards a single barrel, “This may put us on the map!” He plunges his thief into the barrel. It’s Marquette (hybrids are named after towns in Minnesota) planted about three years ago. Wild cherries jumping out of the glass, spice and pepper with soft tannins. We think a softer version of a northern Rhone. There is only one barrel made.

“Wanna see the vineyards? Want this barrel? Wait. Dump. Wash. Here! Try this. It’s the base for my forthcoming sparkling." We get a fine Muscat aftertaste, yet of the clean finish in Champagne. Stay with this one Ray.

We follow Ray bouncing atop his ATV towards the vineyards. We’ve lived on the top of more than one mountain for near 20 years, yet Ray makes us feel suburban. At about 600 feet there is a sweep of land with 50 plus rows of grapes and a well-trodden road cut down the middle. The canopies, so familiar elsewhere, are different here--propped up along wires on posts that Ray has sunk himself over the years. They droop a bit, almost a cower compared to the vinfera vines that stand at attention and say, “I am the proud bearer of the fruit of centuries.”

“What’s going on Ray?”

“The hybrids grow down, vinifera grow up.” That simple.

“What happened to those few rows?” we ask, pointing down hill.

“Scrawny, huh? Minnesota thinks they may be too ugly or shabby or whatever. No official name yet. But it could be the future of red wine in Vermont.”

Okay one last thing. We storm back down to the winery, replete with a pile of rocks nearly blocking the door and raspberries ripe for harvest just an arms length away.

“Don’t think I need to have a tasting room for everyone, what do you think?’

We agree. “You don’t need tire kickers.”

You Know Thaaat! Ray pops a small bottle of a chilled wine that looks like sherry, smells a bit like Marsala and tastes like almonds soaking in apricots and apples.

“I had these extra grapes and didn’t know what to do with them so instead of throwing them out I called my friend, Chris Granstrom, who is also a winemaker in Vermont. We decided to haul them upstate and for no good reason to rent some locker space and freeze all of them whole and deal with them later. Want do you think?”

“Ice wine?” we asked

“Ice wine … sort of. A wine taster from Spain came by after we bottled it told and said we were sitting on a treasure.”

“It would go great with the dessert course on our wine tasting menu at Hemingway’s.”

“Agreed.”

We took the last little sip of our “non-spitter” and invited Ray to do a Vermont winemakers dinner in October with a few of his fellow winemakers.

“Of course,” he replied.

We got into the car and drove down the hill towards Fair Haven and then across to Rutland thinking, "We're going to have fun at our end of October dinner!"

No Crying in the Kitchen

2009-08-02T15:05:00.000-04:00

Friday, August 28 / 7PM

We're having dinner with guest author, Michel LeBorgne, of the New England Culinary Institute, and you're invited!

Gather with us for an entertaining dinner with affable Michel LeBorgne, of Vermont’s New England Culinary Institute. Chef Michel will chat about his recently published memoir, No Crying in the Kitchen, full of humorous stories behind his involvement with NECI, one of the best culinary arts school in New England. With his superlative work ethic as a teaching chef, Michel discloses he has done it all, and all for the rewarding success of his students.

Menu items will be intrepreted from recipes in Michel's book. Visit Hemingway's Restaurant website for details.

Special offer: autographed books only $18.95-- perhaps a great Christmas present for your culinary favorite!

This is an AIWF event. Proceeds from the dinner and books sold this evening help fund the America Institute of Wine & Food Culinary Scholarship Fund, available to Vermont students who seek a culinary education.

It is an honor to have Chef Michel with us on this special day, as we celebrate Hemingway’s 27th year of business. Some nightly surprises surely await.

A Plate Full Proposal

2009-07-14T09:39:00.008-04:00

Finding an exotic and unusual venue for one’s marriage ceremony is near de rigeur in our adventure seeking society. You may know a couple who tied their knot on, under, or over water, or while hanging cliff side, or while schussing around slope side.

And the proposal of marriage is now just as important as the wedding ceremony itself. There are web-sites and books devoted to unique engagement ideas, but we’ll save you the trouble of searching them out by divulging the story of an exceptionally devoted lover.
Hemingway's has long been noted as a hideaway for romance and weddings--even dubbed by Esquire as “One of the most romantic restaurants in America,” so the clever paramour solicited our help.

We happily oblige the gentleman's request, and with our usual aplomb the lady is served her main course. ‘Twas on a plate, of course, but not just any plate. This plate was shipped two weeks ahead along with another plate as well as detailed instructions of with what and when to serve. Nervously, he squirms with giddy delight as he watches his lady slowly eat her meal. She takes a bite, she speaks of the meal’s fineness, she sips some wine. She makes another cut, takes another bite, murmurs, sips a bit more wine.

At a do-it-yourself ceramic center and with no prior experience the starry-eyed admirer created plates of his own design and permanently inscribed under the glaze his secret seductions. Nonchalantly and with patient intent, the boyfriend watches his girlfriend squint. She, not wanting to believe something could be amiss, dines with silent smile, a gentle push of fork, a smear of sauce, a delectable bite, until finally she ruminates about a grander design.

Then she does see, “Will you marry me?” and he jubilantly confesses. The lady being questioned relishes her paramour’s request and says she will! And he too was served dinner with a plate inscribed “I Love You” so that they should dine happily together in anniversary ever after.

Killington Wine Fest Dinner

2009-06-21T20:25:00.000-04:00

Origin of the Species: Château de Beaucastel begets Tablas Creek

Friday, July 17 / 7 PM

Robert Z. Haas, founder of Vineyard Brands importing company and managing partner of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, California, will conduct our annual Friday night wine tasting in conjunction with the Killington Wine Fest.

In keeping with Bob's connecting role between California and French wine producers, he will compare the stylistic similarities and differences between the wines of Tablas Creek Vineyard and the esteemed Château de Beaucastel, partners in his Tablas Creek venture.

It is a closer connection than you might imagine!

Visit our website, Hemingway's Restaurant, for menu details.

Morel Adventures

2009-06-19T02:05:00.000-04:00

I love to stumble across a morel on a spring morning as my less than focused gaze glides along the base of ash trees--a sort of soft radar, a non-evasive foray into the mystery of brown and golden soldiers scattered across land, convincing me that any rational or scientific approach to determine their whereabouts will be dismissed by them as not an arcane enough approach and therefore one not to be rewarded. The harder you look the less you see. You look and rant and try to control the universe in which they belong, and then suddenly, they are there at your feet saying, “I’ve been here all along.”

Everyone has their favorite morel recipe, which more often is a morel story, as the adventure is half the prize. Recently someone dumped some dirt into a mound on a hill top road, where walking, not stalking to forage, is the rule. But there they were, popping out of the top of a small heap. The perfunctory ash tree stood watching me snap a blondie just inches away.

I prefer to cut out the bottoms, get a pastry bag, fill it with some rabbit mousse and shoot it into the hollow cavity of the morel. Bake in the oven not too hotly with some stock in the bottom of the pan until the mousse firms up, gets warm, and the morel starts giving off its woody tobacco sweetness without drying out.

Add some butter at the end into the pan with stock and there’s your sauce. Haunting textures, aromas, and flavors never forgotten.

Aside from sautéing them in butter with a drop of lemon, I also like to dry out the morels and grind them into a powder that can be used as a seasoning--or better yet as a coating, like breadcrumbs, on a piece of lamb or chicken. Great nose on that one coming off the stove.

Killington Wine Fest

2009-06-11T11:13:00.012-04:00

Saturday, July 19

Mark Raymond will be available for most of our dinner hours to answer your questions and discuss the wines of Frederick Wildman and Sons, which will be highlighted for the entire weekend on our nightly four course Wine Tasting Menu.

Special for the KWF weekend (FRI-SUN)
$75 for four courses of foods & wines
Menu TBA.
Featured Wines:
Astica, Torrontes, Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina, 2008
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc, Les Sétilles, Burgundy, France, 2007
Melini, Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigneti La Selvanella Tuscany, Italy, 2003
Hugel et Fils, Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France, 2005
Paul Jaboulet, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhone, France, 2006

Fiddlehead fern

2009-06-05T00:57:00.002-04:00

Fiddlehead refers not to a specific plant but to the general aspect of young, green, unfurled fronds of ferns looking like the curled head of a fiddle, thus circinate vernation.

Also known as the shuttlecock fern, Matteuccia struthiopteris, the Ostrich fern is the most edible species of the fern family. It can grow up to six feet tall and likes to live in places that offer constantly moist soil, such as flood plains. It has a papery sheath around the frond which needs to be peeled before cooking, and it has no fibrous hairs like some other ferns.

Chef Ted makes a soup of fiddleheads puréed with shallots, (chicken) stock, and an herb such as tarragon. At our spring foraging supper he served it with a small Maine crab cake, and garnished it with a few Canadian white violet flowers.

The easiest way for me to find the correct fern is at winter's end or in early spring. I look for the dried, leftover frond that looks like a feather, and I sometimes mark the spot. The Ostrich fern can grow beside other inedible ferns, but the smooth fiddlehead with paper sheath is tell tale. Do not confuse it with the frequently found dried frond of the Sensitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis, that has little beads running it's length.

ABOUT FIDDLEHEAD PICKING:
There are some who say do not pick a crown clean, rather only 2-3 fiddles from a crown. (The crown is the largish mass protruding from the ground from which the fiddle heads sprout and the underside from which the roots are attached.) They say if you do, the plant will die and/or there will be less fiddle heads the following year. Some old timers say fiddleheads are not as big as they used to be because of over picking.

Consider fiddleheads an endangered delicacy and only pick a few. Be sure to cook them throughly, as they are not ingested well when undercooked, and may even be toxic to some when raw.

Cattails

2009-05-20T08:38:00.005-04:00

grab your boots and use your hands
wade in water usually muddy
tasty and so sweet
cattails are a fine treat to eat!

Sung somewhat to the melody of "Sunny Side of the Street" while you contemplate your adventure into a muddy mire to grab lunch.

Not to be confused with water iris which also grow in marshy areas and ponds, cattails have stalks that wrap around one another as opposed to splayed fronds rising from a base.

Once you get to the cattail, straddle it, and peel back the outer layers sliding your hands down the stalk till you reach bottom, which is inevitably under water. Gently snap and pull the cattail out of the water. To prepare, cut off the bottom few inches, which is pale green to white, and peel off this section until you get to the tender nearly all white area.

Now you can make a raw salad of the white shoots or cook them so they magically turn into a "poor man's hearts of palm."

Poach them for about a minute with a little lemon, water, and a dash of sugar and salt. Cool and serve dressed with a citrus vinaigrette.

It is the hearts of cattails we want to recover, the white inner core at the base about 4-5 inches long. If they are invasive in your pond perhaps you want to yank them out--weed and feed of another sort.

There are other uses for cattails, like collecting the golden pollen that oozes from the fat brown "flower." This can be used like "flour" as a coating for fish or fowl before cooking or as a thickening agent. The roots too are edible, though we haven't tried them yet--saving this for another blahg....

Trout Lily

2009-05-13T21:30:00.002-04:00

This must be the year of the trout lily, at least if you saw my lawn, you'd think so. Our field lawn is bordered by woods which is where trout lilies like to grow. Eastern trout lily, yellow trout lily, Erythronium americanum, is also known as dogtooth violet or adder's tongue, and their is a white Minnesota sister lily or two.

Our Vermont version has pretty brown speckled basal leaves with a single, slender center stalk sprouting a delicate yellow flower. At first only one small leaf appears from the ground and it takes awhile before another sprouts. It takes several years for a flower to appear, so unless they are as abundant on your property as on ours, take heed in harvesting.

Trout lily corms are worth digging out unless the plant is endangered as is the white Minnesota dwarf trout lily (Erythronium propullans). Digging out the sweet, small fragile corms is not easy, so consider these little white gems a rare delicacy. Larger corms seem to have more starch and are less sweet. We happen to have enough trout lilies to last a lifetime--small and large, but digging them out of stony Vermont soil is a challenge. You can transplant them in the fall to encourage growth in an area where you would like them to spread so you can harvest for all to enjoy.

Now barely mid-May the flowers have gone, but the leaves are still around for picking. Wash well and use them raw in a salad as you can do with the flower heads and corms. You can see how Chef Ted uses some mid-size leaves as a flower petal on his wild leaf salad of our May 3rd post. Here is a link with more information and recipes.

Spring Forage Menu

2009-05-03T21:47:00.017-04:00

Had a fabulous romp through Vermont fields and woods for an annual spring forage--or as some prefer to call it--wild crafting. Following is the menu Chef Ted hand crafted from our finds:

Vermont pheasant with wild leaf salad, sherry & citrus vinaigrettes

fiddlehead soup with Maine lobster & crab, and scallop

wood-roasted salmon with sautéed ramps, Japanese knotweed, and potato-ramp pie, sauces of ramp, chive oil, and duck stock

wild ginger cobbler with Japanese knotweed ice cream and candied Japanese knotweed

Lee Jones said of his experience,"We thought it would be mildly amusing but it turned out to be a blast." T'was a beautiful and delicious feast!

This wild leaf salad (pictured) was comprised of leaves from Canadian white violets, trout lilies, dandelion, sedum, plantain, and Ox eye daisy. The violet leaves are sweet and comprised most of the salad. Trout lily, violet, and dandelion flowers are all edible. We shredded the dandelion flower as a sprinkling garnish. Pick only two inch dandelion leaves as larger ones are too bitter. Use sparingly in a salad unless you love bitter. Hearts of cattail (similar to hearts of palm) were poached with lemon and salt, and dressed in a citrus vinaigrette and arranged around the leafy greens.

I'll post more photos and blahg more in detail about specific ingredients in upcoming posts. Meanwhile don't assume you know what to pick by this list of ingredients, and if you do know, don't pick from polluted waters or unnaturally fertilized lawns.

Spring Forage

2009-04-13T12:31:00.003-04:00

For us, spring is Vermont's Other Foliage season and it’s subtle beauty is also the season of searching the earth for early shoots of fiddle heads, Japanese knot weed, wild ramps, maybe wild nettles, even morel mushrooms if we get lucky! Of course dandelions will be ripe for picking too.
Come romp through Vermont with us in search of these short-lived and limited delicacies. Chef Ted will create a supper around our finds or you can take yours home and revel in the culinary delights of your own cooking prowess. More details here....

A New Dow Index

2009-04-06T10:46:00.013-04:00

Up here in Vermont we have for years dealt with the daily vagaries of the local economy, but now the national and global economic crisis is creating a whole new correlative for us. We watch the jobs report, housing starts, GDP, consumer confidence, and all the rest of the so called indicators that the government or private industry publishes. The indices let us know how bad things are, or if things may be getting better. For our food loving friends there is also the Big Mac Index, most likely a better barometer for the value of things world wide.

This morning as I take out the trash--mostly paper, cat food containers, and other recyclables (owning a restaurant disallows us from normal garbage) the bag slips from the trash barrel and I notice something new. My wife has taken pieces of duct-tape and wrapped it around the barrel to secure the gentle disintegration of its sides. No big deal, but as the day unfolds I find duct-tape appearing in places it has never appeared before—a sock drawer, a pair of gardening clogs, a chair leg handsomely covered by a slipcover, a computer bag, my ski boots—and on the list goes to even the computer itself.

Then it dawns on me that I’ve discovered a perfect financial index, one so simple yet more indicative of the current malaise than all the logarithms the complex financial universe has to offer: The Vermont Duct-tape Index or VDI as its acronym asserts.

A simple measure of the number of feet or yards of duct tape used a year ago is subtracted from the amount currently used. This figure is divided into last year’s figure. If the indicator approaches 20% there is trouble in the household--and the world. Though it is a lagging indicator, it is also a desperation indicator, which mirrors the psychology of the consumer as well as their financial condition, due to it’s attachment to the idea that duct tape is a last ditch effort that may transcend logic.

As the use of this index prevails, it may even penetrate the big leagues when it moves from VDI to DOW: Duct-tape Overtakes World.

A call to our local hardware store provides further indication of the tape’s measure of successful indexing. Sales have increased by a whopping 18% over last year. We assume figures for 2009 over 2008 will be more astounding. We know for a fact from the Duck Tape Club that in 2005, 873 million yards of Duck® Tape alone was sold. We await figures for 2008 & 2009. Only time will tell if Countrywide’s canard will prevail globally and spur the rise of real Duck® Tape stocks!

Where has all the flavor gone?

2009-04-01T22:53:00.003-04:00

Since most of the fat is now culturally omitted from fresh pork in order that we have our heart attack later rather than sooner, we’re left with the problem of lack of flavor in most of the pork we buy today. We can purchase rubs, marinades, salsas, and barbecue sauces to give the relatively neutral condition of pork some life, but a less expensive home-made method might work better.

Many restaurants, Hemingway’s included, choose to brine pork for a short period of time and then use whatever recipe and cooking method they prefer. You can control the flavor by starting with a basic recipe of salt, sugar, and water; then add any aromatics, spices, or fruits to get to your final goal. Join our email list for our next newsletter with a full recipe and notes.

Restorers and Chocolate Lovers

2009-03-16T16:31:00.009-04:00

The word restaurant comes from the Latin root, "to restore," which is why when you feel in a slump, you may decide to eat out, reviving your corporal self as well as your soul.

Even though the economy is slumped, this doesn't mean you have to feel the slouch. Dining out is a stress reliever. You don’t have to spend big bucks even in your favorite big bucks place. A lesser bottle of wine, a shared chocolate--though for some sharing chocolate may be too hard to take--so if you have to, do whatever it doesn’t take.

This is a quasi poem entitled Restorers, and it is a musing about us at Hemingway's circa 1988:

There are tens that book, and tens that cancel.
We get ready, get set, get un-ready.
We're a constant flux of energy, sighing,
laping little waves.
It’s our little life. Here. There.
Providing sustenance in grand style,
and grand parties for grand occasions.
We endure, for fake flair is best left
to those who need to flare,
mere flashes in pans.
They soon extinguish,
their own juices gone dry.
Our nights continue, one after another,
just nearly nights in a bloodshot sky.
Stars spell out the marquis for real people of the night.
Our nights are sanctified, covered with roses in repose.
For some, a fortieth anniversary is more sacred than a second,
as if the enduring merits a medal,
and not the substance of the bond.
There’s sustenance in any relationship,
feeding when hungry, spoon-feeding if needed.
So eat and delete.
There’s no need to forgive chocolate lovers.
They can’t help themselves.

Pair of Winemakers

2009-03-05T23:17:00.015-05:00

We hail the arrival of two quality wine makers from the Burgundy region of France with a special wine tasting dinner on Tuesday, March 24. Jean-Pierre Latour and Michel Caillot from the respective wine estates of Domaine Latour-Giraud and Domaine Michel Caillot, will speak about their wines along with Jim Elston of Chemins des Vins, importer of these fine European selections.

Since this is the first time the winemakers, who are friends, have the same distributor in a state, they decided to travel together. The distributor, Vermont Wine Merchants of Burlington, will also host trade tastings in Manchester and Stowe while the winemakers visit.

Wines from both producers are highly rated by many of the leading wine publications. “In the cellar, Michel is a fanatic for quality and is committed to the principles of non-interventionist winemaking. Michel's wines have a clear house style. The whites are beautifully balanced, combining pure, clean lemon-citrus fruit, the fascinating minerality of the soil, a fine, creamy texture and a crisp, long and complex finish. The vanilla oak is in the background, but does not obtrude, and the individual character of the different vineyards is allowed to show through. The reds are smooth and supple with pure berry and cherry aromas, soft, round tannins and lush, ripe fruits on the palate.

The Latour-Giraud estate has been established on the Route Nationale in the village of Meursault for many generations. Focused primarily on Meursault, the estate owns an impressive range of premier cru and villages vineyards... {W}ith the arrival of the genial and perfectionist current winemaker, Jean-Pierre Latour, the estate has undergone what Le Review des Vins de France has called a ‘true cultural revolution.” {from CheminsdesVins.com}

Hemingway’s dinner will focus on wines from the years 2005 and 2006, two of the best Burgundian vintages in this decade. Bourgogne Blanc Les Herbeux, by Caillot, for example, is a great value for most of the grapes are from declassified Meursault fruit. (Each year in France local committees rate grapes according to their typification. The grapes used in the table wine of Caillot’s 2005 Bourgogne Blanc are actually of a higher standard than allowed by law, but cannot be stated as such on the label.) The 2006 Meursault-Genevrières Premier Cru from Latour-Giraud is a first growth wine from one of Meursault’s top three Premier Cru vineyards, of which the family owns a majority. These white wines will be followed by the red wines, Pommard 2005 and Maranges la Fussière 2006, the latter in white is also designated a Premier Cru or first growth.

Jump Starting Weekends

2009-02-22T18:18:00.006-05:00

VALUE: “a quality {Hemingway’s} that gives something {dining} special worth {$30 three-course meal} Merriam-Webster.

This February Friday the 13th was a lucky night for us. With our value priced Sweetheart Dinner we jump-started the holiday weekend, helping folks beat the Saturday night St. Valentine crowd. It was a huge success.

In our 27th year of business we heard from grateful fans around the region. Thus we offer another rosy deal mid-week, Wednesday through Friday. This is not food for thought: it’s a win-win, good for both goose and gander. As a measure of value for quality this recessionary offering is fabulous!

We will, of course, still offer our famous nightly Wine Tasting Dinner along with a fairly new a la carte menu. Reservations, as always, are appreciated.

We know times are tough, but dining in a great place shouldn’t be.

Half Full!

2009-02-02T09:29:00.020-05:00

In our New World, recommending a movie or restaurant to friends is a dicey affair. Even your most favorite of restaurants may receive objection for so much depends on one's mood while participating. I have learned what is slow service for some is leisurely for others--or the room so romantic to lovers may be too quiet for you. Plus a group in the midst of a good-time din could spell a bad time for neighboring diners.

Of course there are genuine mistakes, and they should be compensated, but if the sign of a great restaurant is excellence, day in and day out, then we believe Hemingway's meets this standard. Of the 30 plus tables serviced on a busy night only sporadically do we have an issue. In our 27 years of operating Hemingway's we believe this is an admirable average.

Given these odds it is surprising that the i-net is not overwhelmed with the positive, often glowing, comments received nightly. To the public at large these voices are mostly mute, thus it is through our own initiative they are more widely heard, predictably broadening us as a target.

It is our commercial obligation to recognize the culturally disabled or the squeaky wheel, and to right a wrong, but it is a sad analysis that in our society the boring grievance details of what should be a private communication and reconciliation between business and client is now made into a social spectacle.

We are compelled to address the low tolerance levels of the mean spirited as well as the general human malaise of seeing a glass half empty, conditions too often encountered. We hope you take subjectivity and stereotyping into consideration when confronted with such attitude. Meanwhile, we wish good fortune to all in this New Year in a New World.

Comforting Winter Beef

2009-01-25T13:50:00.000-05:00

Our Duo of Beef is two different cuts of beef, sirloin and short ribs, prepared two different ways in consideration of the best method for each cut. The sirloin is first trimmed and cut in half the entire length of the strip. Steaks are then cut from two lengths of the strip, so they are thicker and a bit rounder than a typical strip steak. They actually look more like a small filet mignon. The steak is then pan-seared and roasted in the oven to medium rare.
The ribs are braised for about 3-4 hours with aromatics, herbs, red wine, and veal stock.

This dish is often accompanied by a potato pie that has sliced potatoes, thyme, diced tomato, onion, and garlic, all tossed with a touch of olive oil, salt, and pepper, then layered into a small roasting pan, and baked in the oven for about 1-2 hours. When cooled to room temperature, the potato pie is cut into three inch diameter circles. These are heated in a slow oven and served with Swiss chard braised with sliced shallots and coriander, and butternut squash diced and roasted in the oven until golden.

The sauce is is a combination of some of the de-fatted braising liquid along with a roasted shallot veal reduction.

This beef dish is good for ski season as it offers a balance of roasted and braised meats, while addressing the winter fix of an elevated comfort food that is deep, rich, but not heavy as one might think.

Part of the challenge at Hemingway's has always been to translate traditional dishes into a modern, cleaner, yet satisfying cuisine.

As Turkeys Come & Go

2009-01-07T22:26:00.002-05:00

On September 12, the day after our sad and shocking 9-11 catastrophe I watched a parade of wild turkeys wearing hooded robes march single file around our pond. These hooded monks formally came to grieve as professional mourners. Perhaps it was my morose mood, but their big, black, feathered bodies slowly trotting and solemnly picking their way along the snowy path, were all knowing. Had I been in a better mood I might have equated their turkey trotting to a rejoicing country dance--for it wasn't even hunting season.

Though Chef Ted once cooked a wild turkey given to us by aforesaid hunters, the turkeys we serve now at Hemingway's are from Vermont's Misty Knoll Farms. Family-owned and operated, they produce some of the finest naturally raised free-range turkeys in the country.

I have just learned that these wild birds, an eastern subspecies of wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo silvestris) were scarce after Vermont forests were cleared in the 19th century. They have since replenished now that Vermont forests have regrown.

Thus change happens, and whether slowly or quickly, it is constantly upon us. You've heard of the phrase, The meek shall inherit the earth. It can be reconsidered when examining the etymology of the word, meek, to mean submissive, pliant, or subject to change, instead of weak. Thus considered, Darwin wins again.

Change is in the making in this New Year, whether effected by our new President, or by our selves. Meanwhile we wish you a Happy New Year while we busily tend to all the skiers and their excitement with all of our heaven sent powder!

For the Birds, Part 2: Turkey

2008-12-20T12:48:00.013-05:00

At Hemingway's we've spent years trying to perfect roasting local organic turkeys that we serve at Thanksgiving and at Christmas. After many roasting theories, with failure as well as success, we realize the answer is not to roast, no matter how blasphemous it appears to our cultural consciousness. I mean not roasting a turkey questions grandma, tradition, ambient smells carried over a day, seeping in and out of what a family is or is supposed to be ... not to mention guilt associated with a famous Rockwell painting, where all the smiles and warmth on the faces of those present are due to the crackling brown turkey emerging from the oven, whole and glistening, a trophy not to be tampered with.

Oh well... on to taste, deconstructing the bird, and its method of cooking--without ripping apart the culture--forgetting that a large amount of angst over the years has been derived from determining whose method of roasting is best. It’s a sort of Hatfield and McCoy standoff with an implacable perspective where every division of the family ceases to give throughout their small window of life on this planet. (Sorry, says L, he can’t help himself.)

Blast it with heat the night before and leave in an oven, turned off, until the next morning; roast it slowly for so many hours at such and such heat; baste every half hour; don't baste; deep fry it; poach it and use a blow torch to crisp the skin...on and on....Generally what we all seem to agree upon is that somehow the bird should emerge from an oven whole and shimmering, then dutifully carved by one of the males present who has more skill with a knife than beers in his stomach.

As I discussed with quail and birds in general, in order to give the best flavor experience, my preference is to view the bird as two entities to be considered uniquely in their cooking methods. So, before any roasting happens I prefer to remove the legs, thighs, and breasts from the bird and keep them separate.

Take the carcass and wings along with aromatics such as celery, carrot, and onion, and roast these in a 400 degree oven until golden. Remove all from the roasting pan and place into a stockpot—the size of which depends on the size of the bird. Add water and simmer for a good four or five hours. This will be the base for our sauce. This could be done the day before, as could a good portion of the remaining preparation, which would allow the cook to watch TV, or actually communicate with the rest of the family.

Strain the stock, skim the fat, and begin reducing the remaining liquid to the point where you feel comfortable with the viscosity of the jus, or sauce, or gravy, or whatever pleases you and your family.

I like to confit the leg and thighs a few days before--that is to cure and then braise them in duck fat, giving the meat a wonderfully dense aromatic flavor, along with moisture, all while fooling the mouth into believing it's been roasted.

There are many recipes for the cure, but basically it's salt, sugar, and whatever spices you choose. Place ingredients in a bowl and dredge the legs and thighs, patting them down a bit as you go. Place them on a rack and leave them overnight in the refrigerator, making sure you have a pan underneath to catch residual liquid. The next day rinse them well with cold water, taking care to get as much of the cure off as possible. Pat with paper towels to dry, and place them in a pot. Cover with duck fat, which can be purchased at a gourmet or butcher shop—or try olive oil. Heat slowly until the fat just begins to bubble. Ideally you should cover them with a lid made of parchment paper, but some aluminum foil with a few holes in it will work. Place over a whisper of heat for about 2-3 hours, or until the meat is completely tender shredding from the bone. You can also place the pot into a low oven for the same amount of time, so as to not have it staring at you, questioning your ability to maintain the proper temperature.

Before removing the meat from the bone, allow to cool a bit, or overnight, in the fat. As an added act of culinary insanity, you can crisp them in a frying pan before serving, to give a sense of tradition to the dish.

Onto the breasts! Make a simple brine of sugar, salt, orange peel, herbs, and chopped olives. Place the breasts in the cure for about 4 hours (depending on the size). Remove and pat dry. Sear skin side down in a hot pan. Once golden, transfer to a moderate oven and roast until perfect. This also can be done a day or two before, so you have complete control over the moisture in the breasts, as they are not drying out while waiting around for the legs to cook.

Stuffing can be made on the Stove Top :) or in the oven, using some of the juices from the above preparations.

All that is left is for you to enjoy the compliments.

For the Birds, Part 1: Quail

2008-12-01T18:46:00.002-05:00

Now that Thanksgiving is over we will concentrate on the upcoming Christmas holidays. This is the season for game birds, so our next few blogs will be about just that. First up is quail.

When we started Hemingway’s Restaurant in 1982, we drove for hours each week to pick up game birds from a small farm in Massachusetts. Luckily, Bill and Rick Thompson in Cavendish, Vermont, decided to raise pheasants, and subsequently quail. Hemingway’s became one of their first commercial accounts and to this day we still use their fine products.

Over the years we have continued to work with both the whole and semi-boneless breed Coturnix, which originated in Asia and is also known as Japanese or Pharaoh bird. It is mild flavored, almost sweet, and delicate while still having rich overtones--making it extremely versatile for a myriad of preparations. It lends to smoking, marinating, or quick brining before one roasts or sautés. (vs Vermont breed?)

As a rule, when using the whole quail, we tend not to roast, but rather sear it for a few minutes, flash it in a high oven, let it rest, then remove the meat. At the pick up we finish it in a hot pan. This procedure allows us to extract flavor from the bones, yet gives us complete control over the final product. As most cooks know you cannot get legs and breasts to cook at the same rate, so this dilemma is solved by sautéing at the end, monitoring the precise doneness. The added plus is crispy skin without overcooking!

I think boned quail should be treated altogether differently. Of course you can marinate it, throw it on the grill, or sauté it. But wait, you have a wonderfully flavored vessel that asks to be stuffed. Simply take a toothpick and secure the wing end of the bird. Stuff the cavity, then take another pick to secure the leg.

Whatever it is -- animal, vegetable, or starch (or a little of each,) it has to be put into the quail at the doneness with which you want to consume it--for most people, cooked, seasoned, moist and not dried out. In this way we again control the temperature of the meat because we do not worry about cooking the interior ingredients, only warming them through. At Hemingway’s we use a little protein, say braised pork along with fennel, mushroom, and something politically correct, say quinoa to stuff the bird.

Now give the bird a quick sear, and finish it in a moderate oven, or just rub it with oil and spices, and roast until medium. Ah, we are semi roasting, which gets us to the meat of this matter ... keeping it moist.

If you want dry birds without flavor don’t waste you money on quail, just get some chicken, throw it in the oven, mow the lawn, have a glass of wine, read a book, then take out the chicken and douse it with a sauce--and make sure you have enough liquids to wash down your meal. Birds can be moist without being raw, regardless of what the food fascists dictate. It just takes care and attention. Call our hot line with any culinary question.

Peepers of another sort

2008-10-24T22:59:00.012-04:00

I began this blog last spring when peepers, aka tree frogs (Pseudacris crucifer,) poked through pond water and peeped throughout the night. We now end this third quarter with peepers of a different kind: those who pursue perfect leaves. Our little brown frogs survive winter's sub-zero temperatures by lowering their metabolic rate and freezing along with the pond, but when the trees loose their splendor the two legged leaf peepers simply migrate to the sunny south. Weathering our current economic downturn will sort real peepers from the leaf lore. Having Hemingway's restaurant which has survived for 26 years proves we've met challenges like this before, so again, until a thaw occurs we shall dig deep and ice up along with prevailing temperatures. Before, however, we begin our winter burrow, we shall fly south for a short respite, and when we return for Thanksgiving this blog will resume.
PS! I found my first Agaricus campestris or pink field mushroom this week, right next to our front walk. Of course we do not use pesticides here, so it was safe for picking.

Shaggy Mane Dye Job

2008-10-06T11:16:00.003-04:00

Shaggy mane refers not to a hairstyle, but to another common wild mushroom. I took the photo of these Shaggy Manes about a week ago, when leaves were just beginning to turn. The foliage scenery is now exceptional at this time in central Vermont. If you find mushrooms in your autumnal stroll, remember to get advice from an expert. Do not try to ascertain an edible mushroom from a photo, no matter how nice it is. Photos and illustrations are simply tools for learning. Even an expert mycology site like American Mushrooms has this warning throughout. Coprinus comatus appears white when young, and disintegrates into a black goo as it ages. It is long, cylindrical, and in the family of inky caps, along with Coprinopsis atramentaria. This is another common edible usually found nearby in our area, and around the same time in late summer and early fall. Of these two types of mushrooms, Chef Ted prefers the former. Pick while still young, firm and white. When sauteéd Chef Ted says the shaggy mane gives off less liquid than the darker inky cap, but he still prefers to use it only in soups or sauces as it taints. For him this dye job is not the answer.

Slings & Arrows

2008-09-19T19:50:00.010-04:00

As a restaurateur I too rely on Google to search for reliable information, but I have to say, "it ain't what it used to be." Now a Google search puts foremost too many social sites with too many reviews containing inaccurate information, including spelling errors. With wine reviews, for example, grape varietals are misspelled and sometimes the detailed name of the wine is incorrect. It is irritating to have to wade through a list of populist commentary links before one finds credibility. From a business perspective, I am not in favor of this round party table of democratic reviews with their ultra subjectivity. Give me a hard-edged critic who makes a living from the slings and arrows of his prose. It is OK if one's expectation meets or is lower than that of the reviewer, but if one is looking for a discerning mind, eye, or palate, then verify the credentials behind the judgments. Finding a plethora of inexpert commentary is a waste of time for the reader, and to the producers of said product or service, it is a disservice.

Graylings

2008-09-09T11:59:00.018-04:00

As in all relationships there are often shades of gray, difficult to distinguish from nefarious black buttons or angelic white pedestals, but after some years of practice one learns what is black and what is white. That's how I feel about wild mushrooms: I only pick the ones I know. Anything in a gray area is left alone. But when it comes to actual color instead of metaphor there is a choice edible gray mushroom. After 24 years of marriage Ted and I purchased our first home. Though initially we did not want all of the woodland that was part of the property--a gray area for us, now we happily have trails with an abundance of the special haircap moss where grayling mushrooms, Cantharellula umbonata, prolifically spawn. When we logged and made hiking trails (a wonderfully white experience) there was one year an abundance of mushrooms protruding from trail embankments. To determine if they were edible we hired a mycologist. We enjoyed the afternoon so much we decided in subsequent years to share our experience. That was the genesis of our annual public mushroom forage. The gray area in this case turned out to be honey mushrooms, Armillaria mellea. We thought they were edible but they actually kill forests and have adverse reactions with some folks, so we let those remain. The mushrooms we felt we should stay away from--tiny, gray in color, and cropping from a funny moss, were choice! When cooking, Chef Ted shreds these delicate mushrooms and adds them last. In the same habitat are similar brown mushrooms, but they have more distinct gills and should not be eaten. Mushrooming has a lot of gray areas, so be sure to have an expert help identify. We only eat what we know. It has taken years for us to be comfortable with only a handful of mushrooms. Here is a link to a mushroom expert who speaks to this.

Annual Labor Day Forage

2008-09-05T20:46:00.016-04:00

We went on our annual Labor Day mushroom forage and returned with these specimens. I have already mentioned the difference between false and true chanterelles, but this photo better illustrates. Though it won't "kill you dead" a false chanterelle, Gomphus floccopus, (left) will make you ill. Note the gills travel nearly all the way down the stem of a false chanterelle, and with a true chanterelle, Cantharellus cibarius, they travel partially down. The false chanterelle is also indented like a funnel. We also found scaber stalk boletes, but not much else since the rain has stopped. All had fun nevertheless and lunch was delicious! Special thanks to Boston.com for the free blurb. Graylings (small and in the chanterelle family) should be up soon. We'll talk about these next. Meanwhile, here is a link to a mushroom recipe contest where you can win free 'shrooms and here is a link to poisonous mushroom site.

Spring Forage

2008-08-29T10:59:00.017-04:00

A dear client gave me a list of about 25 wild edibles she found on her property. Though I know most of them I have never found them all around the same area. Lucky lady! Her property borders part of the Appalachian Trail so widespread disbursement may be the reason.

One early season edible we will find for sure on our annual Spring Forage this week is dandelion. It's a weed, but so are many other wild edibles. Dig and you will have yourself a twofer: weed gone, and green edible had. The smaller, tender leaves are less bitter. Sauteéd with olive oil, fresh garlic, and some hot pepper is how my grandmother used to eat them. Raw in salads is another common use. Some people pick only the flower and make dandelion wine--for this there is quite a diversity of recipes you can web-search.

Field daisy leaves will be emerging and ripe for picking their tender leaves. Violets (tender leaves,) wood sorrel, plaintains, and Johnny jump-ups should all be available.

Sedum is another wild plant that when picked young can be used in salads or as a garnish, though one version called stone-crop is not. I say if there is a question, or it is questionable for some --fogeddabodit. Trout lily falls in this category, and we don't serve honey-mushrooms for that reason: some folks may find them upsetting.

Just down the road is Japanese knotweed, Fallopia japonica, syn. Polygonum cuspidatum, Reynoutria japonica, considered an invasive plant, so no worries about pulling it up by the roots, though mostly it is cut back just above where it meets the earth. Best height for picking the asparagus-looking stalk with red speckles is 4-6 inches. It is best to identify it in the fall when in full bloom, usually in roadside ravines. It is a high bush that has wall to wall leaves with long lasting and showy white flowers, and a bamboo-like stalk.

Ramps or wild leeks, Allium tricoccum, members of the onion family, resemble poisonous lily-of-the-valley plants. Be sure your ramps smell of onion. Some people confuse ramps with wild garlic which is also edible. In the UK wild garlic is called ramson, Allium ursinumin, so it may be more of an etymological rather than physiological confusion as wild garlic has thinner, hollow stems--more similar to chive than daffodil, which is another poisonous bulb to be wary of picking mistakenly.

We definitely know where to find some Ostrich or Shutlecock Fern, Pteretis pensylvanica, so we can get their early fiddleheads. This is an edible that can be scouted in the winter or early spring for site verification. Look for the spore-bearing fertile fronds shown in our photo.

We'll hope for morel mushrooms, but it seems too dry at this time for a good crop to emerge.

Always get advice from people who know the wilds. Here is link to a list and photos of wild Eastern plants.

Youthful Choices

2008-08-04T14:15:00.017-04:00

On visits to New York one artist friend used to bring back mushrooms he found on the Taconic Parkway. The were mostly large or even giant puffballs, Calvatia gigante, shaggy manes, and inky caps. Chef Ted isn't fond of the later two, because they, "throw off too much water." This genus, Coprinus, disintegrates rapidly, also throwing off a black liquid substance actually used one time as ink. The puffballs should always be sliced down the center to be sure there is no apparent stem. If there is a stem, the specimen is not a puffball, and may be a deadly Amanita. Last year I found a multitude of the smaller gem-studded puffballs, Lycoperdon perlatum, also known as devil's snuff box. The top eventually disintegrates from within and with any slight pressure bursts into a snuff of spores--devilish I suppose because it could be harmful to inhale the spores. Some folks find what is called a field mushroom, Agaricus arvensis and Agaricus campestris , often located, as puffballs are, on lawns or where cows once grazed. Young specimens have pink gills. I am not as familiar with them as I would like to be, so I stay away from eating them though I try and discern some characteristics each time, including fragrance. The next time I find some, I will bring them to my neighbor who is confident about these Agaricus campestris. As with most everything, youthful examples are choice.

"...the world's mine oyster."

2008-08-04T12:54:00.014-04:00

Pleurotus ostreatus hit me in the face. We were driving home a couple of nights ago when the high beams pointing uphill flashed on a tree sprouting billows of pillows of oyster mushrooms. "Stop! There's some oysters!" I yelled. Ted squeaks the brakes and pulls over nearly into the ditch on this cloud covered night. I pull a folding scissor from the "glove" compartment. (When was the last time you had gloves in yours?) There were pounds of these overlapping oysters, but most were too high as is often the case, unless you are lucky enough to find them on a fallen tree. They grow on deciduous live, dying, and already dead trunks. Oyster mushrooms do not have serrated or saw tooth edges and they have a stem, known as a stipe in the mycological world. More common are inedible polypores which also grow on dead trees, but they are hard and have no stipe. The next day we took our pole saw and lopped off the remaining bounty. This summer I could write a foodie poem about why I love the rain. Meanwhile, scan the wooded roadside and you may find a pearl in your own little world.

Gold in these here hills

2008-07-22T20:17:00.009-04:00

Chanterelles galore right now. We had a tip from someone who went on one of our public forages. She and her husband came by to ask our opinion about her multitude of funghi finds. Most were not edible, but she told us where she found a nice patch of the golden darlings. There was also a patch of false chanterelles, many of which she picked. They differ in that the top appears as a funnel shape and one can put a stick or pencil down into the top of the mushroom. The color also differs. The photo shows Faith holding the false one in her right hand. The goodie golden ones in the next photo will be served tomorrow with baby chicken, and we will recommend a sturdy white wine--perhaps a viognier from Calera since the chanterelles have a little apricot nuance. Some oyster mushrooms are also around, but more should be found on decaying trees later in the season as the nights cool.

King Bolete aka Porcini

2008-07-05T19:14:00.014-04:00

A thunderous spell of rain has Mother Earth proffering many wild porcini mushrooms, or king boletes. They are part of the Boletus edulis family, and they are popping up in the woods and in moss. Some have what is called scaber stalk,-- brown flecks along the stem. The photo on the right is of one that has a little age. Younger, firmer specimens will be better and less invaded by bugs or slugs. Ted yanks them from under pine needles as they birth out of the damp earth. In France the Italian porcini is known as cep or cèpe. Golden chanterelles are also springing from the ground. Both species should be around until fall, so stay keen to spot either; they will be more abundant after rain. Be sure to get professional advise before eating foraged mushrooms--and always cook them before eating. Mushrooms should not be rinsed in water unless they are particularly grimy; rather use a soft brush or damp cloth to clean. Store in a paper bag to avoid premature decay.

I DO therefore I am

2008-07-02T22:16:00.007-04:00

My mother, though born in Italy was like many Vermonters, a natural philosopher. Her credo: productive work; her enemy: sloth. In her elder years my uneducated, immigrant Mom recollected my 1960's college years, when I continually doodled a three dot delta triangle with Descarte's quote, "I think, therefore, I am." One semester I doodled it over and over in my notebooks which lay open on the kitchen table. Some 30 years later, we are in a car, and while I am chatting with my business mate about slack employees, Mom's sub-conscience tunes in. Astonishingly, she proudly pipes from the back seat, "I DO, therefore I am." It was endearingly funny at the time, but a few years later as the millennium approached I took it seriously and included her aphorism in our fall newsletter as number five in my top ten of New Year resolutions. It was emailed to thousands of people. It must have been picked up by some advertising account executive, for a few years later in 2003, "I DO therefore I am” was spread out on a gigantic yellow Nextel billboard in Panama City, Florida. It was breathtaking even through my tears, as we drove away from nearby Niceville where I had just left Mom's side as she lay in her deathbed. Hauntingly true copyright.

The Doctor is Out

2008-06-26T20:23:00.001-04:00

I got to wondering, why is it you never see doctor reviews in the health sections of local or national media?

One doesn’t read for example, “The receptionist did not greet me within three minutes, and I was kept waiting for over half an hour. The nurse drew blood then spilled some on my shirt--and no one ever offered to pay for the dry cleaning!"

Or comments like, "As for the ambiance there were no decorative pictures on the wall and the restrooms should have been neater, especially for a medical facility. Though the doctor was cordial, he examined me with a cold stethoscope. I asked for it to be sent back and reheated, and while it was being refired I wasn’t even offered a magazine to read."

How about a post that says? "Finally, the prescribed medication for my ills led to an unpleasant reaction. Admittedly, this wasn’t as bad as Dr. Dentist who drilled and touched a nerve, not once, but twice. When the bill arrived I could not help exclaim, “What? I was only in the office for fifteen minutes--and half of that was waiting for the stethoscope to reheat.”

Official rating: Service * / Ambiance ** / Technique **

Ultimately, what we find is that reviewer has only visited this particular doctor once and that the doctor has had a loyal following until now. When queried about his credentials, the reviewer responded, “Why I’ve been going to the doctor since I was a child!”

Perhaps because I am in the restaurant business is the reason I am sensitive to the intense focus mainstream media and social sites have on restaurants.

Vermont Mushroom Odyssey

2008-06-13T18:42:00.001-04:00

Vermont Mushroom Odyssey, a short video I produced and co-edited airs this week on PEG-TV. It’s a home groan {sic} video, a culmination of our annual Labor Day mushroom forage. We call it an Odyssey, in part because of the Food Odyssey trips we organize here in Vermont and abroad in France and Italy, and because of the varied aspects the video covers. The video contains clips of one of the mushroom seminars and forays at Hemingway’s plus a visit to a local mushroom farm, along with a demonstration by Chef Ted of the techniques he uses in preparation of his recipe for mushroom risotto, an Italian rice dish. Vermont Mushroom Odyssey serves an overture to some of the pleasures our Green Mountain state has to offer. Up next? Vermont Apple Odyssey with heirloom apples, the best apple dessert, soft & hard cider, apple brandy and more!

Baby on Board

2008-06-09T11:43:00.000-04:00

Baby on Board

I am no psychologist; I am a restaurateur, which is why I believe I deserve a degree in psychology. Having a high profile restaurant necessitates wearing a bullet proof uniform. For nearly 30 years I have been tending to basic human needs and during this time I have unearthed a cultural malaise.

Too often I relate a new customer’s unjustified complaint to how much attention a patron at a nearby table receives. There are those who believe all customers are created equal. I, however, cannot agree. I would like to, but how can you treat a customer who has been coming for years in the same manner as a first time visitor? You get to know a regular. You comment on a conversation from his/her/their last visit.

A plethora of articles have been written about caring more for your employees, and about employees caring more about customers. Some people have immature personalities, whether employee, customer or owner, even if they seem adult. I have found the more control and authority a person projects, the more chronic their insecurities. That is when a small error or disagreement on your part turns into a vague yet major crisis.

The psychological sickness creeps in when this personality type acquires self-esteem from others. It is a constant need for recognition, and it creates havoc in the workplace and social milieu. There is no right to reassurance. I try to like all of my customers and all of my employees, but they want more. They want love.

It’s not bad. It is just that true love cannot be had easily. If only we could know about these personality types ahead of time. I know some regular customers who are psychologically demanding--and you know what? We do love ‘em, so they keep coming back. In the sea of fine dining throw out a CUSTOMER PRESERVER. Try to learn about psychology to help turn negatives into positives.

However, if a new client hangs one of those little square yellow signs on his seat which reads, “Baby on Board,” it would let us know instantly that we should be extra cautious. Then it could be love at first sight!

Some Vermont Culinary History

2008-06-01T22:22:00.002-04:00

Having the good fortune of living in these Green Mountains has allowed us to forage and use locally raised ingredients for over three decades. In 1974 as young restaurateurs in Woodstock we readily accepted beefalo meat from local farmer, Orson St. John. The Rumble Seat Beefalo Burgers turned out to be a big hit. That was our first foray into what is known now as the loca(l)vore world. Back then we were also interested in wild mushrooms, but we only knew about Chef Joseph Schenker of The Barnard Inn who foraged for cèpes. We were delightfully envious of his finds and wished to learn more. Finally now and for the past decade we have a wild mushroom forage every Labor Day.

In the early ‘80’s we were tuned into the nascent culinary revolution in California and New York City. We too wanted to make an American statement of dining in a here-to-fore European discipline, but we loved living in Vermont, so we looked to indigenous animals and produce and searched out more local farmers: rabbit from Rutland, venison from Strafford, but a pheasant was to be our logo and we wanted it on the menu, yet we could not find a local farm. For a number of years we drove weekly from Killington to Brattleboro to meet a pheasant farmer from Massachusetts. As you might guess we were thrilled when Rick Thomas from Cavendish Game Farm called to say he would raise pheasants in Vermont.

Another highlight at Hemingway’s was to serve the first farm-raised venison at our farmer's dinner in 1990, which we believe was an inspiration to the Vermont Department of Agriculture who pursued collaboration between chefs, farmers, and consumers with their Vermont Fresh Network. Subsequently in 2002 we had our first annual Vermont Farmer’s Harvest Dinner with farmers on hand to explain their history. Also we are proud to say some of the then BOD members of Vermont Fresh Network attended which likewise inspired VFN to follow our lead and host annual farmer dinners throughout the state.

We were also early investors in the only state producer of soft ripening cheese, the Guilford Cheese Company. We thought it was a slam-dunk because we collaborated with a major Vermont cheese company who hoped to further distribution. Alas they did not want to invest what it would take to market the ripe Camembert style for US consumer acceptance. Kudos goes to the Department of Agriculture who supported the priority of cheese makers, but too bad we got into the game too early!

Gustatorial Marriage

2008-05-25T22:06:00.002-04:00

“You have a wonderful place where the palate unites mind and body,” a thougthful customer recently recounts. “It’s a wonderful marriage.” Her analysis reminds me of the time as a newly married couple we lived near Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Strolling one night around Strawberry Bank Ted and I were drawn to a storefront (actually a bank front) where a sculpture was displayed. The small, smooth, wooden, and primitive torso carried a delicate, hammered metal face optimistically uplifted. The skull, so to speak was a sphere of delicate blown glass that glowed from a small light within. The piece spoke to me immediately about the mind-body dichotomy, and for more than an hour I was rhapsodic. Having returned from a year long honeymoon in Europe, where we stayed in youth hostels--sometimes sleeping in separate dormitories so we could remain on the “Continent” as long as possible--we now drove a Volkswagon Beetle with rusted floor bottom (the battery actually fell to the road on one ride,) and the windshield wiper motor did not work. I furiously operated the wipers from the passenger seat with ropes tied to each blade; so on stormy rides the little car filled with our laughter. Despite our modest income, we splurged $700.00 on this mesmerizing work of art, and put Edna, as we dubbed her, in the back seat, hoping she would not fall through. Edna still resides with us, but now when I glimpse her I will also be reminded of her gustatorial power of marriage.

Robert Mondavi (1913-2008)

2008-05-19T13:14:00.002-04:00

When Magrit and Robert Mondavi invited Ted and I to lunch at their eponymous winery in Napa I knew exactly what I was going to wear—semi-casual with a bit of artsy frou. Ted on the other hand paced in our hotel room, parading a couple of outfit options after I said, “Aren’t you a bit casual?” Ready to walk out the door, he turned around saying,” I cannot wear this. I don’t feel comfortable!” So off with his brushed silk shirt and linen pants; and on with khaki, braided belt, and classic pastel cotton shirt. “Whatever,” is my retort. Here is a photo we took that day. Ted is so pleased he opted for a relaxed look. Robert and Ted are wearing almost identical outfits--while Magrit and I both feel quite comfortable in our semi-artsy frock. Venus and Mars for certain.

Ted received the Robert Mondavi Culinary Award of Excellence in 2001. It was given for his knowledge of pairing food with wine. Instead of a small, framed notation, Robert and Magrit chose to have commissioned portraits for each recipient painted by Rise Oechsner. For approximately seven years a total of about 50 award portraits were given to American chefs. Unable to attend the yearly ceremony, Robert and Magrit kindly invited us to lunch at a more convenient time for our schedule. Hence our sartorial anecdote.

Robert Mondavi was also generous in the development of our local American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF) Vermont chapter. Along with Julia Child, primarily Robert and Richard Graff created this non-profit organization in 1981 to advance the understanding, appreciation, and quality of what Americans eat and drink. Their mission belief is that through continuing education, caliber of life is enhanced.

The AIWF Vermont Chapter is one of many across the United States. Along with sister chapters and the national organization, an exchange of ideas through publications and programs benefits both professionals and dedicated enthusiasts. Membership is open to all. Attendance to most events is open to the public as well. It's a wonderful way to meet knowledgeable, like-minded people, providing an opportunity to network with industry professionals and consumers.

Robert Mondavi, a true visionary, understood California was capable of producing world-class wines, and that Americans would appreciate the pleasures of the table and the marriage of wine with food.

Letter from the Pool Fish

2008-05-12T15:07:00.001-04:00

I, Linda, am the pool fish, or so said Gary, one of our ex-employees. He and Ted grew up on Long Island so both related to party boat fishing, where whomever fishes the best specimen wins the pool of cash. Gary congratulated Ted one night by saying, “You got the pool fish!” --meaning me, the wife. So here in my relative surround of embryonic bliss I flip about in a bucket of love. This post is all about relativity: the rest of the fish in the bucket, the environment one is familiar with and thus comfortable in, the small fish, the big pond. There is no “right” in most of these situations. Feeling uncomfortable in a space or circumstance has to do with what one is used to. It may be different, but it can be exciting if viewed as a happening haven of knowledge, where one can learn and gain insight from those who immerse themselves in their positive passion. No need to be intimidated about not knowing, or stereotyping with preconceived, old information. Relax, realize it is OK that what is not important to you, is important to someone else. Enjoy to learn, and learn to enjoy. What a better bucket it would be!

Vermont Food Odyssey

2008-05-08T11:08:00.001-04:00

We’ve been taking clients on Food Odysseys to France and Italy for the past several years. Our first culinary excursion in 1994 was to the chic and attractive island of St. Barthelemy in the French West Indies. Back then we called ourselves Global Gourmets.

Now Vermont has the perfect social and agricultural fabric for our Food Odyssey to take hold right here in these beautiful Green Mountains.

The state of Vermont has been encouraging farmers and artisan food producers to establish themselves throughout the state in order to preserve the fabric of its rural landscape. We enjoy education, thus sharing the joy and passion of our gastronomic escapades. What better place than in our own beautiful Vermont backyard?

A Food Odyssey is an artisanal amble into the world of Green Mountain foods. It encompasses a variety of food and beverage related activities including, cooking classes, wine tastings, visits to farmsteads and artisan food and beverage producers, food tastings, gourmet dinners, picnics, and wild edible forages.

Further information can be found on Food Odysseys.

Moms Remembered

2008-05-03T13:29:00.003-04:00

Moms and grand-moms have spent time eternal feeding their men, often recreating delights from family hand-me-down recipes. It’s flavor fodder for all chefs. Historically, though less prevalant now, professional male chefs had the opportunity to consider chefing as a profession instead of an obligation. Hemingway's created a dinner in 1998 with Chef Ann Cooper who speaks to this in her book, A Woman’s Place is in the Kitchen. In that dinner we had several male cooks and we designed a menu attributing each course to the woman in their life who inspired the dish: made by men, learned from women. We think it fitting that for Mother’s Day 2008 we also have a menu motivated by women. Dishes may be unrecognizable in format but not in spirit. Visit Hemingway's website for details.

Look Who’s Calling the Ketel One?

2008-04-28T11:52:00.000-04:00

“Do you make a good martini?” Margaret asked.

Looking forward to wowing our new guest with a Hemingway’s standard “up” martini served chilled in an antique glass inkwell, which is then tucked in crushed ice, and ultimately served in a beautiful hand blown cocktail stemware, I delivered with élan, two perfect specimens along with almond stuffed olives.

“Is the martini to your liking?” I inquired minutes later.

With a decided frown and puzzled look, Margaret’s response was less than pleasing. “It’s very weak.”

“Weak? Really? Too little Vermouth? Too much stirring? (I learned to stir 26 times for the perfect martini.)

Margaret shrugged. “It’s not the Ketel One I know.” Let me have a Chardonnay instead.

Dismayed, I bring the bottle of Ketel One along with a glass of Chardonnay to prove to Margaret that this is what I used.

“Yes, it ‘s the same Ketel One we buy, but have you tasted it?” she queried.

I snuck back to the bar for a sip. Yikes! It must have been young Gene, a barkeep in training, who practiced his pours the night before, filling an empty bottle of Ketel One with water.

So, is he just another do-gooder gone wrong, or are we, management, at fault? What say you dear customer?

Waiter! There’s a Fly....

2008-04-26T10:35:00.001-04:00

The converted root cellar of our 19th century building is what we call our Old-World stone wall wine cellar. For many clients it is a favorite place to dine. One family comes for a yearly get-together, and recently they fessed up to a ritual antic they played on our staff. Several years ago practical joker, Uncle Paul, brought a fake “fly in an ice cube” and put it in his water glass. As owner-hostess I made the rounds and when I spied the horrific culprit, I quietly replaced his glass. (I put the specked glass into the wait station for later use as an instructive “pay attention to detail” lesson.) When I left the room the group howled with laughter, and Uncle Paul sneakily retrieved the culprit cube. The group decided to hide the joker fly in a stone cranny in one of our walls. Year after year the family returned, searched for the plastic cube, and placed it in a glass of water. Unfortunate to me is that not one of my staff ever noticed the “fly,” but I was happy to realize that the joke on us was one reason for the years of laughter emanating from those cellar walls.

Ski Burgers to the Rescue

2008-04-25T00:13:00.001-04:00

We just returned from a colloquium produced by the Vermont Fresh Network where retailers, farmers, and distributors shared some of their soul. I was nearly brought to tears by one farmer who from the bottom of his heart crooned, “I love what I do. Success is not measured in sales.”

Besides the sharp increases in the price of rice and corn, and that it takes about $12,000 an acre to replant an apple orchard, we learned another interesting fact today. Two university food facilities in Vermont observed that 90% of the chow that resident students place on their cafeteria trays is thrown away. These two facilities got rid of tray service and noticed a remarkable decrease in food waste, plus savings on not washing millions of trays a year.

It is interesting to note that two panel members did business in New Hampshire but used enough Vermont farm products to qualify them for the dais. Good relationships were made and avenues for communication were paved. It feels like the future of Vermont bodes well for those living off the land. But changing the high, low, “push, pull” existence of current Vermont growers (work like hell during summer then while away winter doldrums,) and the addition of Ski Vermont Burgers may be fodder for future farmers and colloquiums.

Asparagus & Morel Dinner

2008-04-23T11:03:00.001-04:00

We hear it should be a bad year for morels because we have had a dry spring despite initial flooding from snow melt. Nevertheless we intend to have an Asparagus and Morel tasting dinner at the end of May. We hope to find some wild asparagus, but if we don’t discover it first hand, there are plenty of Vermont foragers who can sell us some.

Chef Ted often uses some of the concentrated liquid from soaking dried morels (supposedly a cousin of the truffle family) in his mushroom risotto. We began foraging for mushrooms about 15 years ago and try to learn a few new species each year. We are not mushroom experts, we just pick what we know. Sometimes it takes a few years before we are comfortable with certain 'shrooms. What's fun is just being in the woods out on the prowl.

Here is a link to a mushroom forum in upstate New York that talks about Vermont morels and has some great photos: This is another link to an article about morels from a back issue of Yankee Magazine.

We hope to piques your interest so you’ll come visit our Green Mountains now for some fresh air foraging.

Spring Peeper

2008-04-22T13:51:00.001-04:00

Pokes of daffodil and crocus shoot through the earth, and peepers (spring peeper or pseudacris crucifer, not the leaf kind who roam about in the fall) are jumping around ponds, endlessly peeping. The first ducks arrived a week ago, skimming the first bit of melted ice and snow. They nest for the next few weeks, peepers being a favorite snack!

Meanwhile, down our dirt road neighbors tap their maple trees for sap, running now for nearly a month. Wood sniffs are in the air as evaporator boiling begins, and unless global warming prevails, rain should soon wash our dusty landscape green. Japanese knotweed, wild leeks, dandelion greens, native succulents, and morels are some of the wild, edible, spring pickings Mother Nature is providing us in our beautiful Tuscan-like landscape here on a Green Mountain hill.

Just like these little frogs pushing their heads about in chilly spring waters, I toe dip into this blahgosphere, my first solo. Except for business marketing purposes, I have never been a blah-blah type; thus I have been slow to jump on this bandwagon, but it is now de rigeur for marketing. It seems a little like ballroom dancing, which I also never learned, so I’ve only begun to begin the blahg. I hope you enjoyed my first spring peeping and return another time for another silent earful, or visit us in Vermont to experience the hear now.

As Turkeys Come & Go

2008-01-06T19:47:00.003-05:00